Bike loses all power

OTB · 09-10-2010, 08:47 AM

Easiest way to check out put is to check the output voltage to the battery while the bike is running....above 2500 rpm you should see somewhere between 13.5-14.2 vdc. If you are getting less than that you have a stator or RR issue.

Then you can check continuity of the stator or signal side of RR.

Kerry_129 · 09-10-2010, 11:35 AM

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Make sure to check the stator output when it's hot.

Looks like the new rectum-frier was spliced/soldered rather than using plug connectors - but if plugs, check them for corrosion. Also - get that thing mounted properly so the sub-frame acts as a heat-sink (pref. w/ some dielectric grease on the back for thermal transfer). Even though it's bigger with fins, there's not much airflow there & will run much hotter if the heat has nowhere to 'drain' effectively.

Is it just me, or does the red wire in the pic look like the insulation has gotten hot & discolored?

Use a decent meter & run through the troubleshooting chart - also be aware that when either the stator or regulator goes bad, often the other will follow soon even if it tests fine. At that age, I'd consider replacing both if either tests bad & you have the budget.

Smittie61984 · 09-10-2010, 05:34 PM

We got looking through it and turns out hte problem is most likely the starter relay.

On the right where you see th red plug is the starter relay. We woudln't have power on the cable going out to the starter even when we hit the ignition. We took it apart and checked everything we could. We put it back together and it works again without a problem so we're pretty sure it's the starter relay.

I have the fairings off the bike now so if it happens again I'm going to fuck with the relay to see if it starts back up. I'm also going to double check the battery ground when I can find it.

RedRider2k2 · 09-10-2010, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smittie61984

We got looking through it and turns out hte problem is most likely the starter relay.

You beat me to it. Just make sure the relay is getting signal power when you thumb the starter button. Sometimes the contacts in the starter button itself can cause the problem. But I think you said your green neutral light dims when you push the starter button and the bike doesnt start. My money is on the relay for now.

Smittie61984 · 09-11-2010, 09:20 AM

Yeah, and to replace it is $95. Gonna check the ground and pray to the Honda gods that they spare me and allow me to tighten a bolt.

No Worries · 09-11-2010, 07:37 PM

On my old CBR, all the electric problems are with ground corrosion. And I have a steel frame. Aluminum frames are just as bad or worse. I ground my ground wire from the R/R (green/black wire on my bike) directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Mine also has a wire (red/white) from the R/R to the starter relay, so if the R/R doesn't have a good ground, it may not crank.

09-10-2010, 08:47 AM	#1
OTB The Man Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: CrabTown USA Moto: 00 Bimota DB4 Posts: 823	Easiest way to check out put is to check the output voltage to the battery while the bike is running....above 2500 rpm you should see somewhere between 13.5-14.2 vdc. If you are getting less than that you have a stator or RR issue. Then you can check continuity of the stator or signal side of RR. __________________ http://www.decreasingradius.net/

09-10-2010, 05:34 PM	#3
Smittie61984 I give Squids a bad name Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Fly Over State Moto: 1996 CBR600 F3 (AKA the Flying Turd) Posts: 4,742	We got looking through it and turns out hte problem is most likely the starter relay. On the right where you see th red plug is the starter relay. We woudln't have power on the cable going out to the starter even when we hit the ignition. We took it apart and checked everything we could. We put it back together and it works again without a problem so we're pretty sure it's the starter relay. I have the fairings off the bike now so if it happens again I'm going to fuck with the relay to see if it starts back up. I'm also going to double check the battery ground when I can find it. __________________ lifts - R.I.P.

09-11-2010, 09:20 AM	#5
Smittie61984 I give Squids a bad name Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Fly Over State Moto: 1996 CBR600 F3 (AKA the Flying Turd) Posts: 4,742	Yeah, and to replace it is $95. Gonna check the ground and pray to the Honda gods that they spare me and allow me to tighten a bolt. __________________ lifts - R.I.P.

09-10-2010, 11:35 AM	#2
Kerry_129 Semi-reformed Squid Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 531	http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf Make sure to check the stator output when it's hot. Looks like the new rectum-frier was spliced/soldered rather than using plug connectors - but if plugs, check them for corrosion. Also - get that thing mounted properly so the sub-frame acts as a heat-sink (pref. w/ some dielectric grease on the back for thermal transfer). Even though it's bigger with fins, there's not much airflow there & will run much hotter if the heat has nowhere to 'drain' effectively. Is it just me, or does the red wire in the pic look like the insulation has gotten hot & discolored? Use a decent meter & run through the troubleshooting chart - also be aware that when either the stator or regulator goes bad, often the other will follow soon even if it tests fine. At that age, I'd consider replacing both if either tests bad & you have the budget.

09-11-2010, 07:37 PM	#6
No Worries Keyboard Racer Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mile High City Moto: Old Superbikes Posts: 1,016	On my old CBR, all the electric problems are with ground corrosion. And I have a steel frame. Aluminum frames are just as bad or worse. I ground my ground wire from the R/R (green/black wire on my bike) directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Mine also has a wire (red/white) from the R/R to the starter relay, so if the R/R doesn't have a good ground, it may not crank.