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I'm an idiot...
Okay guys, I admit it, I was an idiot and didnt pay the proper amount of attention when reinstalling my frame slider. The story ends with me stripping out the engine side. The bolt isnt stuck inside, and I even have the handy dandy coil of aluminum from my fuck up, but now I gotta fix this before I head to the Dragon in a few weeks.
After talking to several people, it looks like my best and easiest option at this point in time is to tap in a helocoil (sp) and put the bolt back in. Anyone have any tips or experience in dealing with this issue and the repairs needed? (I dont have time or cash to get the hole redone at this point, and I am not in favor of just drilling another hole.) |
An option sometime used in the gun world is JB Weld.
the + is that it is a fast strong fix the - is that it is a mess to try undo later to make a "proper repair". Best option seems to be the one you started with a Helicoil |
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JB Weld is a mess and it is permanent. You will want to be able to remove that bolt is you need to. |
If I have to get a bigger bolt i will most likely just drill out the frame slider a bit. Its on the right side of the gxsr, a vortex, so that side doesnt have the metal piece, just washers and frame slider.
I am still kicking myself in the ass on this one...:panic: |
rae just get a tapset and re thread the hole. i think thats what it is called :P . We won't hold your tardness against ya . I'm free this weekend if ya need a hand. never re-threaded a bolt hole. Maybe Ray can help.
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Damn, that sucks!! Did you try to tighten the bolt too much, or just not get it threaded properly?
By the way, I laughed my ass off at the front page because I saw, "I'm an idiot" immediately followed by "Got engaged this weekend". :rofl: |
LMAO...yeah I can understand why that would be funny...
Chuck, i think thats what this is sposed to do...they do it on the jets around here too...I will let ya know, hopefully I wont have to pull the engine to get this done, but if so, rest assured I may be calling in some assistance!! i misthreaded the damn thing and didnt realize it until it was too late... my bike and I are developing a love/hate relationship...she's developing quite a taste for my blood as well as a distinct tendency to leave the most awful looking bruises everytime I work on her...probably payback for this issue... |
I don't know if this'll make sense but...how far in did you get the bolt before you realized your mistake? The bolt threads in approx 1" and if you only misthreaded it "alittle" 1/4 or so. With some patience you can get things back on track and be ok. Can you reach the otherside of the thread and run the bolt in that way to clean the threads up? If not,you can use the bolt,a tap that size would be better about $4 at Lowes,and lube it,carefully line it up with the hole and carefully re-thread the damaged part. You'll have to "wiggle" it around until you have it lined up,patience is of the utmost here!The key is if you have it right,the bolt should start to turn easily after you get past the damage. Sometimes it helps to drill out the bad part of the threads but you have to be VERY careful. The positive side of this is you won't be any worse off if it doesn't work so it's worth a try.
If this doesn't work,or if you'd rather not try,then I'd also reccomend a heilicoil. You can get it in your present size and you'd only have to do minimal drilling into the engine mount/frame. Good luck! |
thanks for the advice, unfortunately, when I do something, I do it WELL!!! It's completely and totally unfixable without doing a helocoil, time cert, or retap.
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:lol: I think I am going this weekend too, been DYING to see it...but most likely working the bar this friday, working the day job Saturday evening and Sunday is the only day I have for fun and repairs! ugh! |
Welcome to the club. I stripped out a bolt holding on my brake caliper to the fork. I got a Heli-coil kit from AAA Metric in Denver. Came with the correct drill, correct tap, stainless steel Heli-coils, and instructions.
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Dont JB weld.
Helicoil will work. have you tried a tap and dye set? i had a stripped fairing bolt on my new bike and just re-tapped the thing. screw didnt exactly fit perfect anymore but it will come in and out on its own with a little patience. again, dont JB... jb weld is like ducttaping your fender back on. or cargo netting your headlight assembly back on. (too bad hes not here to defend himself) |
i feel i should mention, I rarely use JB weld for anything...its kinda like super glue to me, if its possible, I can manage to glue myself or various odds and ends to whatever project I happen to be working on and completely jack it up...typically only an issue when it comes to adhesives tho, so rest assured, JB Weld will NOT be used on my bike at the present time...
Thank you everyone for the input, I greatly appreciate it!! |
been there, done that, got the t-shirt
heli coil it I broke a bolt trying to get it off my SV's sub fairing to replace the undertail. It was torqued on about 400x more than it should of been and snapped right off when I went to loosen it. Had to drill it out and heli coil it. |
Hope you aren't like a guy I knew in the Air Force. We nicknamed him "The Destroyer." If it could be broken, he broke it. He once tried to replace a thermostat in his truck, proceeded to strip out the bolt and intake, then tried to drill and tap it. He managed to drill it ok, but then broke the tap off in the hole. Yes, the tap, the hardened steel tap.
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Ironically, he is the only student in the shop that is NOT allowed to pick up a hammer :lol: |
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I CALL BS!!!:whistle: J/K |
YOu have the right idea Rae...
A tap & dye set is a garage must. I used the shit out of mine this winter during the build. Even if it was just cleaning out threads have the time the taps were a life safer. http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ld/Day1001.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ld/Day1003.jpg It sucks but it happens sometimes... I had to drill one out a few weeks ago when I tried to tight this grade 8.8 chrome heat shielf bolt on the front pipe exhaust. The red loctite had the threads good, but the heat from the exhaust made the bolt too brittle to take the grunt needed to break loose a red loctited bolt. SNAP! http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ld/snap002.jpg Drilled it out and tapped it... http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l3...ld/snap003.jpg Takes some time but wasn't too bad by the end of the day. |
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K, I read this real fast while talking to a customer and got
Rae Idiot Stripped Slider Stuck Helicoil and JB Weld I got to slow down! |
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wow, rae! you work on your own bike? you are the perfect woman! i wired up my own turn signals once. that was a major accomplishment for me, and about as far as i go when it comes to bike projects. i'd like to go to bike mechanic school someday, since bikes are a passion. hubby thinks that's kinda silly though, not much job opportunity here (he says).
anyways, :dthumb: for you! |
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Gotta learn some how. so ya stripsome boltholes here and there but ya learning. Sorry rae couldn't resist.:sorry:
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i'll try and remember to punch you next time I see you...
:lol: |
Wooot BRING ON THE PAIN!!!! is whipping included or is that extra? j/k
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Just don't let her install your sliders!:zowned:
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i vote drill & tap, grade 8 bolt-super easy
hey gman did u try heating up that bolt to break the red loctite seal? that works/helps sometimes |
Did I try to heat it? Is that a joke question? FUCKIN A I tried! I even ran the bike (the bolt was on the exhaust about 3" from the head). Didn't FUCKIN help! FUCK FUCK FUCKITY FUCK
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Hey question,why is red loctite even necessary? Isn't blue good enough for basically everything? I always thought that loctite was to keep bolts from "vibrating" out. |
Red is for bolts that you don't want to remove or for high vibration. Its a simple higher strength.
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^On that note, anyone know a good place to get the 242 (blue) and the red loctite in larger bottles for a decent price? The tiny little squeeze tubes are a ripoff...
Oh and GM by 'high vibration' do you mean... umm... your ENTIRE BIKE? :lol: |
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:zowned: btw I saw either 4oz or 8oz threadlocker at the auto parts store. |
Yeah actually that is true... the entire bike is a giant vibrator... But hey... at least you know why your girl left you for me! :D
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Started about 12:30, ended 12:30, jesus christ it SUCKED!!! 12 hours of work for 10 minutes of actual repair!! Altho assuming I have to do this again, I will be MUCH faster... Had to basically drop the entire motor, which was one issue after another, but let me tell ya, I am now one bad ass dremel user, I have fabricated my own goddamn tool for the spacer bolts that compress the engine in the frame an am saving it for future use. My radiator is zip tied in one mount space since the damn thing was apparently damaged after my accident in October, but it wasnt till we tried getting it back in that we realized it. And a few other minor issues that were all resolved in the end, just tiring and irritating, but Dragon ready!! Whew! |
sounds like a fun time, now I need to get dragon ready, my front is shot and my rear isn't far behind it.
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I found a 250mL bottle but it was friggin 100 bucks! :panic: Quote:
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i kno your pain lol |
Thanks... sharing in the pain makes my vageen feel slightly better! :D
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speakin of vibrators-any1 ever use that viberider to fuck with chicks? supposedly you put it in your passenger seat and it works off engine rpm-vibes harder the more u rev it. |
That is gay. and so is the viberider... get a real mans bike and you won't need that crap... mine vibrates like it belongs to a porn slut.
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wondered why you went from a perfectly good zx9 to a mobile i-vibe
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